Fruit Fly Care Sheet FlyTips To Increase Fruit Fly Production


Fruit Flies can be one of the easiest feeder insects to care for.  Each of Insect 32 oz fruit fly culture includes all the food and water the flies will need for 4 to 8 weeks.


The difference between starter cultures and producing cultures


A New Culture has Excelsior and Media, No Flies.

A Starter Culture has Fruit Flys, Excelsior and Media.

A Producing Culture has Fruit Flies, Excelsior, Larva, Cocoons and Media. Fly Cultures


Want to feed your animals NOW or start NEW cultures right away?  Our producing fruit fly cultures come with fruit flies and should be hatching new flies between the day of arrival and 2 to 4 days after arrival. 

Please note some suppliers take out the fruit flies leaving you with larva and cocoons only.  Our cultures will always have fruit flies in them giving you more to work with.

The non-producing cultures are freshly setup cultures and will be hatching new flies in about 12 days for Melanogaster and about 23 days for Hydei.

Freshly Started Hydei Cultures will start to produce flies you can feed to your animals in 17-23 days.  Freshly Started Melanogaster Cultures will start producing flies in 10-12 days.  Each fruit fly culture has the potential to produce 1000's of flies, but there are a few things that can slow down or stop production all together.  The main key to great production from your cultures is the environment you keep your cultures in.



Fruit fly cultures are prone to dry out in environments that are under 65% humidity. To maintain humidity, place the culture inside of a clear Sterilized shelving unit to keep the culture from drying out. You can also spray down the culture with aged water if it dries out.


Fruit fly cultures should be kept between 70 and 80 degrees. If the cultures hit 85 degrees even for a little while, the culture will go sterile and will not produce any more flies. Fruit Fly Cultures that are kept under 70 degrees produce much slower.


Our 32 oz fruit fly cultures are made with a media that has a mold inhibitor already in it.  However, if the culture begins to dry out, mold will appear on the top of the media.  If mold develops on the top of the media, spray the mold down with some de-chlorinated water and put the culture in a clear Sterilized storage shelving unit to maintain humidity.

Mold will occasionally develop on the coffee filters or excelsior used in the culture.  To prevent this from happening, make sure cultures are away from heater/air conditioner vents.  If mold develops on the coffee filters or excelsior used in the culture, remove the portion with the mold on it before starting new cultures from that culture to avoid spreading the mold. Feeding from a moldy culture will not hurt your animals.


While your culture is producing flies, you need to remove the flies from the culture every few days.  Otherwise, too many flies will lead to too much CO2 and cause the flies to die.


Science Photo Library

There are two types of Mites found in Fruit Fly Cultures.  White grain mites are common in fruit fly cultures.  They are attracted to the fruit fly media. The white grain mites are found in all grains and are probably in your kitchen already!  These mites take over a culture when the flies are not doing well.  If the culture is kept optimally, the fruit flies will out-compete the grain mites.

Fruit Fly Mites are brown/red predatory mites that attack fruit fly pupae. This type of mite is quite rare in the pet industry.  They lay eggs on the fruit fly pupae and prevent the Fruit Flies from hatching from the pupae.

To ward off mites, we recommend the following:

  • Keep cultures older than 28 days away from cultures that are younger to minimize transfer of mites.
  • Sprinkle Diatomaceous Earth around your cultures to kill mites as they move.  But not in your cultures or it will kill all your fruit flies.
  • Keep grains (such as meal worm bedding or food items) away from your fruit fly cultures